Where to go in Cyprus

Lefkosia (Nicosia)

Seat of Government, diplomatic headquarters and cultural centre of Cyprus, the capital presents two distinct faces: the old, original part of the city, surrounded by sturdy Venetian walls over 400 years old, and a busy modern metropolis which has a population of approximately 214.000.The capital of Cyprus, in the middle of the island, is cut in two by the Green Line, which divides the country. Since the wall came down in Berlin, it's the only divided capital in the world. The old town, inside the 16th-century Venetian walls, is the most interesting part of Lefkosia, with the city centre and municipal gardens just outside the wall on the south-west side.

In Lefkosia, the Leventis Municipal Museum traces the development of the city from prehistoric times and gives a pretty good overview. For some really spectacular museum pieces try the Byzantine Museum in the downright ugly Archbishop's Palace, which has a superb collection of religious icons and mosaics. In the grounds of the museum, St John's Cathedral has some recently restored 18th-century frescoes. Once the main entrance to the city, the Famagusta Gate, on the eastern wall, is beautifully preserved and is now used as a cultural centre.

Pafos (Paphos)

Pafos' most famous sight is its mosaics, originally laid down in the 3rd century as floors for Roman nobles. The first of these was uncovered in 1962, and continuing excavations have revealed a complex of buildings covering about 300 sq m (about 980 sq ft). Most of the mosaics, considered the best in this part of the world, are dedicated to Dionysus. Many people who come to Pafos come on a package, and the town isn't really set up for the casual visitor, with very few decent places to stay. Have a look in the northern part of town and you might be able to dig something up. Pafos seduces its visitor with its majestic landscape, lovely coastline, historical treasures and delightful villages, splendid array of beaches, luxury and inexpensive hotels, warm hospitality, Mediterranean nights, some of the most famos wines in history, pine forests and olive groves and lots of ancient vineyards, ruins of forts and temples, monasteries and churches, baths and theatres.

Troodos

The thick cedar and pine forests and sun-soaked slopes of the Troodos region offer an unexpected contrast to the Mediterranean coast, less than an hour away. Halfway between the busy towns of Nicosia and Limassol, halfway between sea and sky, rising to 1,950 meters (6,500 feet), Troodos is a counterpoint to the rest of the island.

Connecting the mountain resorts of Troodos, Kakopetria, Platres, and Agros are trails that hold delights for mountain bikers, hikers, bird watchers and botanists alike. Signs mark the presence of flora and fauna unique to Cyprus. Glimpses of the blue sea beyond peek through the lace-like canopy of cedar trees.The mountains of the Troodos region, in the country's south, are unforgettable. And unlike the rest of the Republic, this is one place where you might not be outnumbered by package tourists. Popular with skiers, hikers and the heat-intolerant, Troodos is littered with 15th-century frescoed monasteries, wine-making villages and pleasant walking trails. Kykkos Monastery, in the western Troodos, is the best known but most touristy monastery. Built in the 12th century, it's been completely renovated and contains a museum of religious icons. Asinou is probably the most beautiful of the area's monasteries, which are a bit hard to get to.

Platres is the main resort in the Troodos. In the south of the region, it was a colonial hill station and is still very popular with expats. It's nothing special, but there's lots of places to stay. Pedoulas, in the western Troodos, is another regional centre and home to the Church of Arhangelos Mihail. It's also one of the most convenient bases for visiting Kykkos. Close enough to touch, herds of grazing moufflon, or agrino — the shaggy mountain sheep indigenous to Cyprus — pass by. And the clear mountain air is fragrant with lemon and orange from the groves below. Happily, a natural reserve in the heart of the region insures that this wild beauty will remain forever.